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I meant glad the fan worked out for you, not “motor.”

Not sure what you are trying to accomplish with the "current limiter"... slowing down the motor? Sometimes limiting power to a motor will cause them to heat up and/or burn out. My motor is driving a geared mechanism but can't really answer you question "how heavy a load". All I can say is the motor has sufficient power to drive the load. Don't know where you sourced your motor. These are purpose/application designed motors and the surplus motors available out there vary greatly between very weak to quite strong. All of these will need a cooling fan if they are running for very long. If you need to turn something in your speaker slower, I suggest you forget the light bulb and use a set of gears or a drive belt reduction or look for a shaded pole gear motor that turns slower (stronger motor with more gears in the gear box). Some are strong enough to hurt you... such as a rotisserie. Another method could be to use a stepper motor, which can be programmed to run different speeds. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running. Ron

My mistake for not explaining the current limiter, I didn’t want my first comment to be too winded; the bulb I’m calling a current limiter is seperate from my motor, it’s a circuit with an outlet that plugs into your wall to place this 300w 120v bulb in series with your live 120vAC, and it will flow to dissipate large amounts of heat if you plug in a device with a partial or a dead short. I wasn’t after anything technical when I asked about the load, not an answer centered around data at least… is it for a tumbler? For example, what ls the diameter of the drum and how much weight can it be expected to turn? Whatever the load may be, does the low starting torque of these motors cause yours to get up to speed slowly? Do you allow for any belt slip? The good stuff is always in the details, who needs data? Lol

My experience with these motors is they will either start or not start. There is no slowly getting up to speed. If they don't start I suspect they will heat up much quicker. I have not built a drum tumbler. Following are examples of applications where I have used the shaded pole gear motors. These are pretty strong gear motors and unfortunately the source has dried up. Closest thing I have seen to one of these is for a BBQ rotisserie. Closest to stalling out one of these motors is the Busker Organ Air Supply. Marble Machine - Ring Gear Lift (wood gear reduction) ruclips.net/video/QzIG9stFXSI/видео.html Marble Machine Teaser - Pin Gear Roulette (wood gear reduction) ruclips.net/video/-W4Na9FgPeE/видео.html Flat Disc Electrical Slip Ring (shows view of motor installation) ruclips.net/video/w8bDha0szIY/видео.html Spray Can Paint Mixer (gear motor direct drive) ruclips.net/video/BFow88VJxn4/видео.html Building The Busker Organ - Motor Drive & Gears Part 4 (wood gear reduction - the largest load on one of these gear motors) ruclips.net/video/59MszwTeDvI/видео.html Building The Busker Organ - Manometer Test Part 5 ruclips.net/video/cnQvvG5P7Hs/видео.html Senior 20 Organ (25) Making The 17 Front Pipes (near the end - using the Busker to test organ pipes) ruclips.net/video/hsWXo6BfDM8/видео.html Rewinding Filament Spools For 3D Printing (belt drive used) ruclips.net/video/03euMYrIv7U/видео.html

I do not understand what you mean by "dispense from the base of the can". These cans dispense upside down (nozzle pointing downward. I have had out of date cans work just fine... but at some point in time they won't do anything.

@@RonaldWalters2010 Sorry, I should have said from the top nozzle (without straw extender attached). There's no propulsion at all but plenty of weight to the can. Time to trash it?

Sounds like you have lost the gas in the can. If the nozzle is pressed with the nozzle pointing upwards, the gas will be lost without pushing out any of the contents. Time to trash it!

@@RonaldWalters2010 Rats! Thank you for the info.

I trust you have also seen Part 2 where new grips are 3D printed. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running. Ron

The process to take the ET5 (same as M12) apart to replace the o-ring piston ring. ruclips.net/video/mF5VM7XFCfc/видео.html Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running. Ron

There is a thrust bearing... wood... polished and waxed. It'll last a 100 years. :-) Thanks for watching! Ron

Sorry, haven't seen one of these with a threaded shaft. All of mine had shafts with a flat and the sprocket was glued on. Good luck!

Check you email... I sent it a few minutes ago. Ron

No.

Wherever they sell router bits. Common item.

Glad you enjoyed it. Look around on my channel and you'll probably find other subjects of interest. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running. Ron

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running. Ron

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running. Ron

Thanks for watching and for your kinds comments Very much appreciated! Hope you have subscribed! That is what keeps this channel running. :-) Ron

The base is attached to the top of my mailbox with double side carpet tape. You could drill and countersink a couple of holes and use flathead wood screws to attach it to a post. The screws just need to clear the upper rotating part. I use ceramic roller skate bearings in mine. Unfortunately the moisture gets to the steel parts and they rust so I need to replace the bearing about once a year. They don't seem to make any that are 100% ceramic nor stainless steel. The machine screw is M3 (metric). Usually the threads print pretty well but you may need to chase the threads with a tap And then... the top outside visible screw just plugs the hole to keep water out (the hole gives access to the M3 screw). Use whatever you want for it... M4. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running. Ron

@@RonaldWalters2010 thanks for the info, appreciate it.

Glad it helped. Look around my channel. You may find other subjects of interest. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running. Ron

Glad it helped. Look around my channel. You may find other subjects of interest. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running. Ron

How nice to hear from you George. I was looking around for parts and pieces to built this for several years before I got started. Before starting on the Mini-Calliope I built two (2) John Smith Senior 20 Street Organs, one with an animated conductor of my design (designed to follow a sketch of a conductor included in the plans). I also motorized the organs (and the rewinding). Those old hair dryers really were no longer an option. I experimented with a couple of blowers (made a video of one failed configuration... just too noisy). The current arrangement works pretty well. I may try one or two CPAP machines. My CPAP is set at 12 inches of water pressure (they certainly can be dialed down) so it might be a good option... and it is VERY quiet. I hope you watched all of the videos. There are 31 videos including 13 of it being played. Mini-Calliope Dec 1982 Popular Mechanics ruclips.net/p/PLDjucfhdTRPmoT7SEgoAU1eSfYaBUD2rI Other than when tuning, the calliope has never been played by the keyboard. I don't know anyone who could play it. Most of my project videos are grouped together in playlists. Robert Hammell in Colorado also built your organ not too long after your article was published. I was finally able to get in contact with Robert and he was a lot of help sharing with me what he had done. Robert also plays the organ. Myself, I don't play anything so that is why I wanted it to play midi files. I'm A Yankee Doodle Dandy ruclips.net/video/MwUSLhDfaoA/видео.html Thank you for watching and for writing. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running. Ron

@@RonaldWalters2010 Thanks for the reply. Yes, I have watched all of the videos. And, I have communicated in the past with Robert Hammell. A very nice fellow. A bit of background. When I began writing for DIY magazines, in my late 20s, I made Popular Mechanics my primary target. I had been reading old issues of that magazine since childhood, and always wanted to do some projects for them. Some of my favorite articles from the past had been oddball projects designed ad build by oddball people. So, I approached the magazine with a proposal to make a functional toy pipe organ. I had a little experience from working as a volunteer with the organ builder installing a pipe organ in my hometown church. I was also a musician, and had made any number of homemade instruments for fun. So, the editor told me, "If you think you can do it, go ahead with the project. If it works and looks feasible, we'll buy the article. So I did. It took me about a week to design and build the thing, using only materials available at the local hardware store. I designed it in my head, really, and then just built it. Amazingly, it worked just fine the first time. So, I did the drawings for the magazine, much as you saw them, and had taken photos as I went. I took the photo of the little girl sitting at it, as well. I sent the completed package of photos, the writing, and the plans off to the magazine, about two weeks after they said to give it a try. And there you have it. I gave the finished project to the little girl in the photo. She was the daughter of a friend of mine. I did a good deal of other work for that magazine and others over the years. Designing DIY projects turned out to be a nice little career for me.

Very interesting. I would imagine the little girl still has it. :-) Ron

@@GARCKY I have been wanting to build this ever since I saw it in the magazine about a decade ago. I've since lost the article. Do you have a copy of the original, or a link to it?

Go to books.google.com and search for "Dec 1982 Popular Mechanics" ... you will find a pdf copy

I have not tried a dishwasher. That probably would result in me being banned from the kitchen. :-) And yes, you want the true distilled water. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running. Ron

The power supply is 6VDC 1Amp

:-) ... Found that out the hard way a few years ago. Miss-wired / incorrectly marked. Smoked a couple of Arduino Nano's before I woke up.

Originally available on Banggood.com but they quit stocking it shortly after this video was released. If you read the video description you would have seen this. If you paid attention to the video, you would have seen there is no brand name... not a mark or name stamped anywhere. Look around on eBay, Amazon, WalMart and you can find them, identifying it by sight only. This has been previously addressed in the comments as well. Thanks for watching! Ron

You can go to woodgears.ca and in the lower left corner of the web page you will find a free gear template generator. There are directions on how to use it and how to generate a rack template as well. Obviously the teeth need to be the same on the pinion and the rack. Then you can make it whatever size you like. Watching my entire video and paying attention to the text in the video will give you what you need to create your own mechanism. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe. Ron

I have no idea what you are describing. The power to the Badger is from a simple on/off switch. If power is intermittent... it would seen there is a faulty wire (or wires) switch or circuit breaker. Try running new wires to the Badger and see if it works correctly. If it does, then look to replacing the existing wires/switch/breaker... or better still... call and electrician. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe. Ron

I do not use gasoline or petrol. Watch this: Correct Fuel For 4 Cycle Hit & Miss And Other Model Engines ruclips.net/video/n1zOC2C-iy0/видео.html

You will need to create a path for the resin (or whatever you are pouring) to enter the bottom of the mold and a vent for the air to exit out the top of the mold. Use a dimple for the injection point on the bottom and another dimple on top for the air vent. A syringe to inject the resin may work best. When cured, remove your casting and gently trim off the mold sprues, sanding and smoothing the contour of the golf ball. Then recreate the two dimples using a ball rotary file. Ron

@@RonaldWalters2010 ty Ron! What’s a dimple tho? I know the funnel creates a path, would a dimple be a really small path so not to mess up the mold? Ty

Look at a golf ball. All those little round craters or depressions are called dimples. Google: "golf ball dimples" You need to use the dimples as an injection (filling) and vent points as there aren't any large smooth places on a golf ball. Don't know why you want to make a casting of a golf ball. You certainly would not want to hit one with a golf club.

Ty Ron. Can I ask what the vents do in silicone molds. Ok I see what u mean about dimples. I’ve been using the flat sides of molds as the natural way to create funnels, but for a 2 part mold won’t the funnels ruin the design of the item being molded. A syringe in the dimple is an excellent idea, Ty Ron.

The vent lets the air escape from the mold cavity so the resin can enter the mold cavity. A 2-part mold will always result in a mold seam (line) and some clean-up is required. Generally, you try to make a mold to take advantage of an existing edge or somewhere where the seam will not be obvious or is relatively easy to carve or sand away. With a ball that is not possible. I think I have helped you about all I can. You need to watch some of the videos available on RUclips on making silicone molds. I have a playlist on youtube showing my Senior 20 Conductor Figure. There are several videos you can watch regarding making the molds, removing sprues and cleaning up the castings of fairly complicated shapes. ruclips.net/p/PLDjucfhdTRPnsxpT4cRofFVFP1-B2R3cX&si=d1y3GW4dXvMEA1wf Of specific interest: Senior 20 Organ Conductor (7) Resin Casting Process Senior 20 Organ Conductor (2) Clean Up Castings Conductor Figure Test Molds & Castings

A word of caution about using this foam around door or window frames or anything flimsy (?? buckled flashing) as the foam can generate a good deal of pressure as it expands and cures causing distortion. A low expansion foam or caulking may be better... but I have no idea what you are trying to accomplish. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for the heads-up Ron. Explaining exactly where I'll be applying the foam would have taken a couple of sentences, so I took what I now realize was an ill-advised "shortcut" by calling it "buckled flashing." In fact, the aluminum is backed by half-inch plywood, ring-nailed on 6" centers. Nonetheless, my past experience has demonstrated just the high pressures you warned me about, so I'll be careful about how much I put into the gap.